The thing about the Chinese fashion manufacturing TikTok discourse is that people haven't seen what it takes to build a reputable business. Look at what independent craftspeople go through: years of training, selling to discerning buyers, building a reputation, and expansion. 🧵

This has nothing to do with French vs Asian hands. In my thread, I highlighted many Asian makers. But I've also seen fraudsters (of every ethnic background). People who start up companies, sell shoddy products to uneducated buyers, and then disappear. https://t.co/Gc4FTDZbTG

What does it take to get someone to fork $1k over the internet for a bag? Hopefully more than a punchy TikTok video! Ideally you read about the craftsmanship from informed buyers, see close up images of the workmanship, and understand how something was made.

Makers, whether Asian or European, should not live in the shadow of giant luxury companies. They should be able to sell their own things on their own terms. The quality of their work should speak for itself. I reject any notion that craftspeople should be reduced to making dupes.

But many people on here seemingly eat this stuff up. "It's made in China and I'm buying it from the OEM." Some luxury things are made in China! But if you go to Canal Street, every knockoff seller also tells you "it's from the same factory." Do you actually believe them?

I've highlighted many quality Asian companies here, including many in China. Atelier BRIO Pechino and WW Chan make bespoke suits at a level that's better than some Savile Row houses. I get my dress shirts from Ascot Chang, a Chinese tailoring company.

I've also highlighted many Asian makers for leather goods that are up there with Hermes: Hosoi (France), Saic Firenze (Italy), Ortus (Japan), Atelier Shiang (Taiwan), Shiue Wen Jhuang (also Taiwan), and Chester Mox (United States). These makers are of Asian descent/ heritage.

The problem is that many people here are unable to judge quality on its own terms, so they rely on a proxy. That proxy can be a brand name, country of origin label, or a TikTok video selling you some bullshit. Can you actually judge quality without any of this?

This entire discussion has gotten wrapped up in some annoying nationalist discourse, which colors everything nowadays. I support craftsmanship both big and small, whether in done in Europe or Asia. The idea that luxury goods are exorbitantly marked up also hurts *small* artisans.

The guy in that original video claimed that Togo leather Hermes bag is $38k. Untrue! Hermes bags start at $12k; men's briefcases $10k. Is this a ton of money? Yes!! But an independent artisan crafting the same bag will charge about $4k bc it's a lot of work.

The idea that these products are made in Chinese factories for fractions of their retail cost only further devalues the very notion of craftsmanship. For some luxury brands, that notion has long gone. But for some, including Hermès, it remains.

Many craftspeople got their training at Hermès before opening independent businesses. Serge Amoruso is an Hermès alum who now sells handmade goods under his own name. Béatrice Amblard worked as an artisan at Hermès and now teaches leathercraft to Californians.

This is how this craft stays alive. One of my favorite companies in this space, Chester Mox, is run by a Vietnamese-American woman named Bellanie Salcedo. I've gotten coat wallets, eyewear cases, folios, and belts from her over the years. Quality is Hermès level.

This entire idea of chasing after luxury brands by skirting various distribution routes to buy off someone on TikTok who doesn't even show you the craft that goes into their products—and may disappear tomorrow—is ludicrous. If you want Hermès level quality for less ...

... go to the independent artisans who have been in the space for decades, quietly perfecting their craft and selling original designs to discerning buyers who understand craft and quality. Develop an eye for what's beautiful.

yes